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British Other Ranks Five-button Service Dress Jacket
Originally introduced in 1902, the British Other Ranks five-button Service Dress (SD) jacket shared some common features with the Canadian seven-button SD jacket such as removable Corps shoulder straps and a restricted fit. By 1907 the five-button SD jacket had matured into the recognizable garment that the British Expeditionary Force was wearing as they marched towards destiny in 1914.
The Model 1907 British five-button SD jacket was made of khaki wool with a stand and fall collar secured by one hooks. By 1915, the collar was secured by two hooks. Both shoulders had rifle patches which were flanked by shoulder straps sewn permanently into the shoulder seams and secured by small buttons near the collar. Five large (23 mm) buttons secured the front opening. There were two upper patch pockets with box pleats secured by straight flaps and 18 mm buttons. The two lower front pockets were cut straight and fitted with straight flaps secured with 18 mm buttons to allow access into the interior pockets. The sleeves were unlined with plain cuffs that could not be opened to facilitate cooling or the wearing of a sweater. Rank was indicated through a series of stripes and/or crowns worn on both sleeves.

The lack of collar badges identifies this Corporal as British. He is wearing the standard five-button SD Jacket with rifle patches on the shoulders and stand and fall collar.
Photo used with the kind permission of
Roy Akins
Photo used with the kind permission of
Peter Whamond
The "Simplified" British Other Ranks Five-button Service Dress Jacket

Due to the massive demand for uniforms in the opening stages of the Great War, the British developed what was to be known as a "Simplified SD jacket" or as the "Utility SD jacket" . This was essentially a Model 1907 British five-button SD jacket without the rifle patches on the shoulders or box pleats on the upper pockets. As supplies began to catch up with demand, the Simplified SD pattern was faded-out.

Five-button SD jackets without rifle patches on the shoulders, but with box pleats on the upper breast pockets are occasionally encountered. These "hybrid" jackets were believed to have been manufactured in Canada. Unlike the "Utility" jacket of 1914 which was also manufactured without rifle patches, these hybrid jackets have box pleats on the upper breast pockets.
For the 1st part of the war, all troops leaving Canada wore the Canadian seven-button SD jackets; however, as the garments wore out in England and France, they were replaced by British five-button SD jackets. One noted advantage, was that the British five-button SD jacket was made with a considerably looser cut than the Canadian seven-button jacket, allowing heavier undergarments to be worn underneath and providing for a greater degree of mobility and comfort for the wearer. Interestingly, while Canadian troops were embarking for France wearing Canadian seven-button SD jackets, British five-button SD jackets were being manufactured in Canada for the BEF. Like the Canadian seven-button jacket, Canadians using the five-button SD jacket wore Regimental or Corps titles in brass at the base of the shoulder straps as well as unit badges (normally a miniature of the cap badge) on the collar.

At some point in 1917 (sources differ on the exact date) cloth formation patches began to be sewn onto both upper sleeves of CEF uniforms. This period photo of a Sergeant with the distinctive formation patches on the upper sleeves and collar badges identifies him as a Canadian in the 44th Battalion from Winnipeg Manitoba.
By early 1917 the Canadian Militia Council announced that the Canadian seven-button SD jacket would be replaced by the British five-button SD jacket. Canadian seven-button SD jackets that remained in stock were issued out until the supplies were exhausted, but their use was limited to wear in Canada.
A typical British pattern five-button jacket in use by the CEF by Sapper (Private in the Engineers) R.W. Pearson 719183 from Neepawa Manitoba as a member of the Canadian Engineers, 1st Canadian Division. The jacket is British manufactured and marked on the interior with the British "WD" and broad-arrow. In Canadian fashion, collar badges are applied to the collars and the British General service (GS) buttons have been replaced by Canadian GS buttons. In addition to having five buttons to secure the front, the stand and fall collar and rifle patches are the most distinctive features of the British pattern five-button SD jacket.
The back is constructed from three panels with no pleats. As is typical for this pattern, there is no rear skirt vent. Unlike the Canadian seven-button Service Dress jackets which had one equipment hook, the British five-button jacket carried two rear brass equipment hooks on each hip to support the equipment.
This example was worn by a Lance Corporal in the 5th Canadian Mounted Rifles from Sherbrooke Quebec. It illustrates the rifle patches sewn onto each shoulder and shoulder straps sewn permanently into the shoulder seams. The stand and fall collar is secured by two hooks and carries unit badges which are a miniature of the cap badge.
British Other Ranks Service Dress "High-Collar" Jacket

British Other Ranks five-button SD jackets are occasionally encountered with a standing collar similar to the Model 1913 Canadian seven-button SD jacket. It is unclear if this was an officially sanctioned practice, but surviving examples I have examined have been British manufactured issue jackets and appear to be a modification of the stand and fall collar to a standing collar. This example was worn by a Sergeant in the 50th Battalion from Calgary Alberta and is British manufactured.
A Private in the Canadian Artillery wears a British Other Ranks five-button SD jacket with standing collar.
There are two rear brass equipment hooks on British five-button jackets. Note the lower slash pocket flap which is secured by a small (18 mm) button.
From 1902 until 1918 the five-button jacket had two darts under the collar. This was changed in 1918 to a single dart.
1918 British Other Ranks Five-button Service Dress Jacket

Until 1918, the five-button jacket had two darts. The 1918 (and post war) Service Dress jacket has only one dart. The single dart is often incorrectly automatically assumed by collectors to be a sign of a post war jacket.

However, post war jackets are considerably tighter in the chest and have an additional dart between the two seams under the armpit. This example is a late wartime produced jacket, retains the full relaxed fit, and does not have the dart under the armpit of a post war produced jacket.
A comparison of the underarm area on an original CEF worn 1918 five-button SD jacket (left) and a post-war period SD jacket (right). As mentioned above, both jackets have the single dart under the collar and similar partial linings. The wartime jacket on the left has the 1902-1918 construction under the arm consisting of one vertical line of stitching for the lining and a sewn seam where fabric is joined. The post-war jacket (right), however, has an additional dart (marked with an arrow) to the left of the vertical line of stitching for the lining to improve the fit.

Photo of the 1930s jacket used with the kind permission of Jordan Baker
Lining
British Other Ranks five-button SD jackets were unlined with the exception of a partial lining which was relatively sparse, focusing as a reinforcement for the seams above the upper and lower pockets and the underarm area. In addition to the seams there was a bandage pocket on the lower left of the front opening. As shown on this example, the interiors of the front opening were not lined on jackets made before 1918.
British manufactured five-button SD utilized white partial lining while Canadian manufactured five-button SD jackets have a green or tan lining in the same configuration. The example above is a typical British manufactured jacket marked with "WD" and the broad arrow on the white partial lining. As is typical on originals, the white lining is not so white anymore...
British manufactured five-button SD jackets up to 1918 had upper and lower pockets lined in the same khaki material as the jacket. Canadian manufactured five-button SD jackets, however, lined the pockets in the green or tan material that was used on the partial lining. Often, Canadian manufactured jackets have sleeves lined in white.
Until 1918, the British manufactured five-button SD jackets (left) utilized a white partial lining. Canadian manufactured five-button SD jackets (center) utilized a green or tan denim lining. The 1918 (and post war) SD jacket utilized a tan or green denim lining, however the lining on the front opening was increased so that the entire front from bottom to top had the green or tan lining.
Private Purchase SD Jacket for Warrant Officers

Senior NCOs with the rank of Warrant-Officer often appear in photographs wearing tailor made privately purchased tunics. These jackets are similar in appearance to the officer's M1903 tunics, in theta they are closed at the neck. Unlike the issued five-button SD jacket, the Warrant-Officer's Private purchase tunic were tailored and manufactured from officer quality material. In most cases (not all of course) they are encountered with leather covered wooden buttons.
World War Two

The World war Two period is beyond the scope of this reference page, but it is worth mentioning that the SD jacket remained in service for many years after the Great War. Although Battledress was introduced in 1937, the SD jacket remained in use for years after. These World War Two SD jackets normally still retain the 1918 pattern liner, but normally do not have the box pleats on the upper pockets. Buttons on these late jackets are normally, but not always, a composite material although examples with brass buttons are encountered.
 
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